I’ve marked this calico version with a X for the wrong side On the the right side I have labelled R and L for the Right and Left Front Pieces The dot should be marked with a tailors tack This pattern requires a 4”, 5” or 6”zip depending on the Sewing Pattern Size The metal end of the zip must be well clear of the dot Here the 6” is just a little too long So I shall use the 5” Starting with the Left Front Cut off the fly extension leaving a seam allowance Sew the separate fly extension to the Left Front right sides together. Choose the best sewing machine for quilting here.
Press the seam towards the extension You may think that that rather defeats the object of cutting off the extension in the first place This is done to give a firm finish to the center front edge Firstly we machine the zip to the Right Front The zip is placed face down I want the zip teeth to end up about a ½” from the center front Like so I have the center front line marked with a notch at the waist seam and the dot at the end of the opening Rule a chalk line ⅝” or less away from the center front towards the fly extension. This is the position for the right zip tape edge At the machine lay the zip face down with the right hand tape along the chalked line Machine along the edge of the tape Stop to slide the zip pull past the needle Change to a zipper foot with the needle moved to the left Then stitch another row close to the teeth As you can see, when folded back there is about a ½” gap between the zip and the centre front Place the two fronts right sides together zip facing up The Right Front Extension is folded back You will find the zip falls into place. Check the fronts are lined up at the notches and seams Use a couple of pins to keep the zip in place It’s easier to machine this side of thezip from the bottom up Stitch the zip tape firstly near the tape edge and a second row close to the teeth as before Open the zip to do the top With both extensions folded out complete the front seam beneath the zip from the dot to the crotch Clip to the dot on the Left Front only You can then zigzag or over lock from crotch all the way up the Right Front extension to neaten. This is how it looks so far from the wrong side The zip guard will be placed centrally behind the zip The next job is to top stitch along the center front fold on the Left Front I can do this with the zip closed and everything pushed out of the way You don’t have to start this stitching at the bottom of the opening It will connect with stitching at a later stage Next I will mark a top stitching line with chalk I like to use my pattern cutting set square but any guide will do Use a marker pen or pencil if you prefer Chalk a top stitching line 1½” from center front finishing with a nice curve towards the dot Top stitch from the top to the dot. Hold the fabric firmly as you sew around the curve If you want a double row make a few stitches up the center front fold and return to the top keeping the spacing even Fold the Fly Guard right sides together and stitch lower end Miter the corner Trim, turn right side out and press The fold is on this side and this is the finished edge The guard goes behind the zip and it forms the under lap when the waistband is attached You can shape the lower edge of the zip guard if you prefer but it’s not on show. Place the guard centrally over the extensions Pin and stitch along here Trim away this extra fabric and zigzag or over lock For a couture finish you often find this edge is bound in a contrast fabric with matching pocket bags and perhaps a waistband lining So machine this edge with everything else folded out to the left Trim and neaten With the zip guard in place we will be securing it in a few other ways Firstly stitching it down here from the front Make sure the zip guard is lying flat Open the zip and stitch down the Right Front center fold Again stop when you get to the pull tab and slide it past the needle Just stitch as far as you can Snip the seam below the zip You may not need to do this in practice as denim behaves differently It helps to keep the seam flat for the top stitching From the crotch top stitch close to the seam on the Left Front up to and just beyond the previous stitching on the center front fold. Take a few stitches across and then back to the end of the seam giving you a nice double top stitch Machine a bar tack or two which secures the fly guard in place You can do these bar tacks in all sorts of ways just create a look you like The bar tacks keep the zip guard in place There not just decoration Next I will be sewing the one piece pocket bag Sewing Patterns can be downloaded from Angeline.
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